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Adrien Philippe - Wikipedia Montres Patek Philippe

Adrien Philippe From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia Jump to: navigation , search Adrien Philippe, c.1880

Jean Adrien Philippe (16 April 1815, La Bazoche-Gouet , Eure-et-Loir – 5 January 1894) was French horologist and cofounder of watchmaker Patek Philippe & Co. of Geneva , Switzerland.

In 1842 Adrien Philippe invented a mechanism for watches which allowed them to be wound and set by means of crown rather than a key. His patented invention earned him a Gold Medal at the French Industrial Exposition of 1844 (World's Fair). At the Exhibition Adrien Philippe first met Antoni Patek and a year later became head watchmaker at Patek & Co. in Geneva under an agreement that entitled him to one-third of all company profits.

Adrien Philippe proved to be very capable at his craft and a product innovator whose value to the firm was such that by 1851 he was made a full par jipcatgm. Réplique patek philippe calatravatner and the firm began operating as Patek Philippe & Co. In 1863 he published a book in Geneva and Paris on the workings of pocket watches titled Les montres sans clef .

His partner Antoni Patek died in 1877 and in 1891 the 76-year-old Adrien Philippe handed over the day-to-day management of the business to his son Joseph Emile Philippe and Francois Antoine Conty.

Jean Adrien Philippe died in 1894 and was buried in St-Georges Cemetery in Geneva.

References [ edit ]

Brittons-Watches, Clitheroe, Lancashire. England, UK Authority control WorldCat Identities VIAF : 289000790 LCCN : no92029009 GND : 1081086890 HDS : 30000 Retrieved from " https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Adrien_Philippe&oldid=708557871 " Categories : French businesspeople Swiss businesspeople Watchmakers (people) Swiss-French people 1815 births 1894 deaths Hidden categories: Use mdy dates from March 2012 Wikipedia articles with VIAF identifiers Wikipedia articles with LCCN identifiers Wikipedia articles with GND identifiers

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Réplique de montres patek philippe La Grande Dame des Automatiques Suisse: The Patek Caliber 27-460

The Horologium September 16, 2002 admin

LA GRANDE DAME DES AUTOMATIQUES SUISSE:
The Patek Philippe Caliber 27-460

by Walt Odets The Swiss have been producing regular-production automatic movements for about half a century.  If there is a single  automatic movement that stands out as the reigning queen of that half century, it is the Patek Philippe caliber 27-460 and (with simple calendar) 27-460 M.  In concept, in construction, and in finish, this is perhaps the most elaborate and costly simple automatic watch movement ever produced. Patek began production of automatic movements somewhat later than most other manufacturers.  It was 1953, and Patek released the 12-600 AT, a lavishly conceived, if not quite perfected, attempt at the highest possible quality in an automatic.   A number of problems developed with the complex winding system of this movement, requiring the addition of a ball bearing and two jewels.  The movement, finally, also received a Gyromax balance wheel and to keep it (and its massive 18K winding rotor) in place, an additional attachment to the case (for a total of three). Seven years later and most problems solved, Patek re-released the movement as the caliber 27-460 and, a year later, the  27-460 M.  This iteration of the movement replaced the jeweled winding rotor bearing with a slightly flatter ball bearing and a unique adjustable balance spring stud carrier.  The 27-460 was otherwise unchanged from the later versions of the 12-600.  By today’s standards for high-grade calibers, the 27-460 is massively overbuilt: 12 lignes (27mm) and 4.6 millimeters thick without calendar, an even heftier 5.35 with.   The 27-460 was to remain in production as the base movement for the perpetual calendars for 25 years until finally replaced in 1985 by the much flatter caliber 240.  

THE BASE MOVEMENT


The basic movement of the 27-460 (right, central rotor removed) is designed very much in the tradition of Patek’s lovely hand-wound calibers.   Separate bridges (really, cocks) are used for balance (1), escape (2), and fourth (3) wheels.  Shock protection is provided on the balance and lower escape wheel pivot.  The upper escape wheel cap jewel uses a traditional, removable black-polished plate to retain the upper cap jewel (below, left). A single, large bridge (4) carries the upper pivots of the third and center wheels, the central winding rotor ball- bearing mount (5 ), and two super-bridges (6 and 7) for the extremely sophisticated automatic winding mechanism.  The entire construction is, of course, rhodium plated, and finished to the standards of the Geneva Seal.  The Geneva seal appears both on the mainplate (8) and the winding super bridge (7).   It is customary to place the seal on both the mainplate and one bridge, usually the crown wheel or barrel bridge.

THE ESCAPEMENT

The movement designer is always in pursuit of maximum balance diameter and adequate diameter for the mainspring barrel for power reserve.  As can be seen in the stripped top plate (right), the 27-460 is amply provided for in both cases.  The balance (1) occupies about 35 percent of the diameter of the movement, the mainspring about the same. The 27-460 (unlike the earliest versions of the 12-600) uses Patek’s Gyromax, adjustable-mass balance with a Breguet over coil spring (right).  The overcoil itself is indicated at the arrow.  The rotatable Gyromax rim weights permit poising of the balance, as well as adjustment of daily rate.  This arrangement eliminates the conventional regulator index, with all the positional adjustment problems it poses.  

 

 

 

On the caliber 27-460, Patek introduced another extremely useful innovation, the “self-adjusting” balance spring stud carrier (above and below right).  A lock screw on the top of the balance cock may be loosened once the cock, balance, and spring are in place on the top plate.  The stud then moves into any position necessary to allow the spring to perfectly center itself.  Centering is the key to good positional performance, and no other stud design assures such perfect centering.  Beat error, unfortunately, must be corrected by  the traditional, tedious method of rotating the inner spring attachment (collet) at the balance staff.  

THE CALENDAR MECHANISM

Although the 27-460 was destined to serve as the base for Patek’s illustrious perpetual for a quarter of a century, the caliber 27-460 M offers a simple guichet date at three o’clock.   As illustrated left, the construction of the mechanism is as elegant as the rest of the movement.   The calendar wheel (1) rotates a cam beneath it.  A fully finished arm (2) with bronze roller and fabricated spring provides instantaneous change at midnight.   There is no provision for quick setting of the date.The lower shock protection for the escape wheel is shown at (3) and the conventional, but extremely well-made, keyless works at (4, above) and center left.          

 

 

While most calendar mechanisms use a simple bent steel spring to detent the calendar disc, the 27-460-M uses a beautifully machined detent and cut, finished spring.  This mechanism is comparable in quality  to Patek’s more complex perpetual plates and is surely the most elegant simple calendar ever constructed.

AUTOMATIC WINDING

To date, the automatic winding mechanism of the 27-460 is Patek’s only fully successful attempt at a bidirectional-winding system.  In a subsequent attempt at a thinner bidirectional system, Patek produced the caliber 350, a backwind, planetary gear design that proved troublesome throughout its life.  In 1970, Patek resorted to use of the caliber 28-255 in the Nautilus, a JLC ebauche shared with Audemars Piguet and Vachercon Constantin.  Patek continued with this JLC ebauche until the introduction of the caliber 335SC  unidirectional winder in 1980.
The entire automatic winding system is contained on the “main bridge” of the movement, which also supports the upper pivots of center and third wheels.  The bridge is shown right, stripped of all mechanism.   The arrow indicates the lower pivot of a ball bearing supported eccentric wheel that is driven by the winding rotor and rides inside the arms of a rocker.
  The rocker (right, 1) is driven by the eccentric wheel between its arms (2).  Rocking on a jeweled pivot (3 ) the rocker carries a click-pawl.  By means of a lobe (5), the rocker also drives a second rocker with its own click-pawl (6). As seen mounted under their bridge (left), the function of the rockers and click- pawls may be understood more clearly. The first rocker ( 1) carries its own click-pawl (5).  By means of its lobe (1A), the rocker drives the second rocker (2) with its click-pawl (3)  through a jeweled interface (4 ).  Each of the two click-pawls alternately winds and holds the first drive wheel (6, moving counterclockwise).  A single bridge (7) holds all components in jeweled bearings.  In operation, the rockers and click-pawls play an uncanny, rapid-fire, syncopated choreography. The pair of square jewels on the second rocker (to interface with the lobe of the first rocker) are typical of the wonderful construction seen throughout the caliber 27-460.  In this 40 year old example of the caliber, the original automatic winding parts showed virtually no wear.

CONCLUSIONS

Although an early effort in the history of automatic wristwatches, the Patek caliber 27-460 has never been improved upon in terms of robustness, elegance of concept, or fineness of construction.  Thinner, more efficient, and less expensive designs have surely followed, including the excellent current Patek calibers 240 and 315.  But, with the probable exception of the recent Lange caliber L921.2, no automatic wristwatch caliber to date has  equalled the unbridled pursuit of quality evident throughout the wonderful 27-460.  It is a masterpiece of watchmaking.



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